Muhammad Ali Sadpara

Muhammad Ali Sadpara born February 2 1976 and died February 5 2021 was a Pakistani mountaineer He was part of the team that achieved the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat His two teammates Alex Txikon and Simone Moro later stated that they could not have done it without Sadparas genius He is the only Pakistani mountaineer to have successfully climbed four 8000meter peaks in a single calendar year His 20yearold son also climbed K2 in the summer of 2019 He was born in the village of Sadpara on the outskirts of Skardu in northern Pakistan He began his career as a porter His passion for mountaineering led him to accompany foreign expeditions In 2015 his team attempted a winter ascent of Nanga Parbat but was unsuccessful They tried again in 2016 and reached the summit marking the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat He has climbed Nanga Parbat four times In January 2018 Ali Sadpara and Spanish mountaineer Alex Txikon along with six Sherpas attempted to climb Everest in winter without supplemental oxygen but failed the following month at Camp 4 due to high winds In June 2018 he was recruited by Marc Batard to participate in the Beyond Mount Everest program a fiveyear undertaking They planned to climb Nanga Parbat K2 and Everest in 2019 2021 and 2022 respectively Among his prestigious mountaineering record Muhammad Ali Sadpara successfully climbed 8 of the 14 peaks over eight thousand meters Gasherbrum II in 2006 Pakistan Spantik in 2006 Pakistan Nanga Parbat in 2008 Pakistan Muztagh Ata in 2008 China Nanga Parbat in 2009 Pakistan Gasherbrum I in 2010 Pakistan Nanga Parbat in 2016 Pakistan first winter ascent of Broad Peak in 2017 Pakistan Nanga Parbat in 2017 Pakistan first autumn ascent of Pumori in 2017 Nepal first winter ascent of K2 in 2018 Pakistan Lhotse in 2019 Nepal linked with Makalu in 2019 Nepal from Manaslu in 2019 Nepal He disappeared on K2 with Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr and Icelander John Snorri on February 5 2021 Pakistani authorities officially announced the abandonment of the search and the deaths of the three climbers on February 19 2021 His son Sajid Ali Sadpara also a professional mountaineer and a national treasure was 20 years old and the youngest climber to reach the summit of K2 On July 26 2021 he found his fathers body on K2 five months after the tragedy